Skip to main content
TESLA·FAQBY
MediumModel SModel X200-1000 USD

Model S/X: subframe bushings — clunk and hum over bumps

Rear subframe bushings on Model S/X harden and crack over time. On larger bumps a characteristic 'boom-clunk' appears; on cornering — slight rear-axle wander. Replacement is possible but labor-intensive: the subframe must be dropped. We break down symptoms, kit options, and the real Minsk budget.

Drivetrain · RWD, AWD, AWD Performance
Updated · 2026-04-30

Summary

The subframe on Model S/X is attached to the body through four rubber-metal bushings (subframe bushings) and carries the rear suspension and drive unit. Over time the rubber loses oil, hardens and tears, play appears between subframe and body → characteristic clunk/hum on larger bumps, rear-axle shift under load, "floaty" handling. On S/X past 150–200 thousand km this is routine work; sometimes replaced at lower mileage after impact loads.

Symptoms / Diagnosis

  • Boom/clunk over speed bumps and seams — "resonant" sound, transmits into the body.
  • Hum/vibration during acceleration or on highway at 80–100 (rubber lost damping).
  • Slight yaw of the rear axle under throttle and regen — the car "rotates" by small angles.
  • On a lift you can see cracks and rubber separation around the subframe bushings.
  • Sometimes — camber "drift" that doesn't come out with normal alignment (subframe is physically displaced).
  • Wheelspin/clunk under full throttle — on Performance/AWD Performance the bushings die first.

What to do

1) Diagnosis.

  • Lift + pry bar/crowbar: try to shift the subframe by hand relative to the body. On a healthy one — zero motion, on a bad one — noticeable.
  • Inspect all 4 attachment points: rubber tearing, sagging, oxidation around the bushing.
  • Check the Rear Drive Unit bushings — they're separate but wear together with the subframe ones and are often replaced as a kit.

2) Repair options.

Option What Pros Cons
OEM Tesla — subframe assembly Remove old, install new Simplest path Very expensive; absurd for just bushings
OEM bushings + pressing Drop subframe, press out old, install new Realistic path Need press, mandrels, experience
Polyurethane (UP, JeePerf, MPP) Full kit 4 + 2 RDU Don't harden, last 200k+ Stiffer on small bumps, +vibrations into body
Spherical inserts (MPP) Aluminum inserts in OEM rubber Less deformation, relatively quiet Price, install complexity

At a Tesla service, with a "bad bushing" they often replace the entire subframe — hence $1000+ bills, even though the rubber itself is pennies.

3) AliExpress lottery. Subframe bushings for S/X exist on AliExpress, but quality is a black box. For a heavy responsibility component — better Lemforder/Febest or polyurethane right away. Don't recommend installing unbranded: it'll tear within 20–30k, and you have to drop the subframe again.

Belarus budget

Parts:

  • One OEM subframe bushing: $30–60.
  • Kit of 4 (subframe only): $120–200 aftermarket, $200–350 polyurethane UP/JeePerf.
  • Full kit of 6 (subframe + RDU): ~$300–500 polyurethane.
  • Used subframe assembly from teardown: $300–700, new — more and almost pointless.

Labor (Minsk, ~$50/h):

  • Drop/install rear subframe assembly with suspension: 6–10 h → ~$300–500.
  • Press bushings: +1–2 h → ~$50–100.
  • Alignment after: $40–70.

Total range:

  • Basic (4 OEM bushings + pressing + alignment): ~$400–600.
  • With UP/JeePerf polyurethane and RDU kit: ~$700–900.
  • Full upgrade with additional washer/bolt replacement: up to ~$1000.

In chat the question "how much to drop and reinstall the subframe" came up more than once; local masters did it — labor is substantial, the price is around $300–500 for labor only is confirmed (#55733).

DIY notes

  • Disconnect HV (via service connector per manual) and 12V.
  • The subframe is lowered with a trolley/transmission jack — without it, dangerous.
  • On S/X with air suspension, discharge the air system through the service menu before work.
  • Check the mounting bolts — on S/X with 200k+ mileage they seize, sometimes shear off. Plan for a new fastener set in the budget.
  • Pressing: heat the aluminum subframe with a heat gun before pressing in a new bushing, otherwise you can warp the seat.
  • After everything — mandatory alignment with a printout (better yet, 3D rear-axle geometry measurement).
  • If battery removal is planned — that's a separate serious job, do it only at a shop with experience.

Links / Sources


Community experience

From the TESLA owner's group BELARUS chat: the subframe-drop topic came up several times — predominantly on the Three, but on S/X the logic is the same.

Additional observations:

  1. Rear subframe drop in Minsk is taken on by local masters; the work is rated as "substantial, but don't tackle without a lift" (#55733, #55765).
  2. After light accidents the subframe is often attempted to be repaired — sometimes you get by with a couple of arms instead of replacement, but if the mounts are off — frame jig and/or replacement (#60438, #36390).
  3. On pricing: a front subframe for M3 was found at $280 (Ukraine) vs $650 (Belarus) — on S/X the difference is even bigger, used-from-teardown delivery saves real money (#11090).

Sources

  • https://www.go-parts.com/garage/suspension-control-arm-tesla-model-s-tesla-model-x-2021-2026
  • https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-model-s-control-arms-bushing-kit.186852/
  • https://unpluggedperformance.com/product/2021-tesla-model-s-model-x-6pc-bushing-upgrade-kit/
  • https://www.jeeperf.com/product-page/tesla-model-s-full-front-dream-suspension-upgrade-6-bushings
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNlG1-QpLSk