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TESLA·FAQBY
MediumModel SModel X80-700 USD

Model S/X: rear toe links and bushings — well-known weak point

On Model S and X, the rear toe links and their bushings are a typical weak point. The bushing sags, the rear wheels go 'house-shape' (negative camber), tires get chewed from inside. What to choose: a new arm assembly, refurb with bushing rebuild, or adjustable links — and how much it costs in Belarus.

Drivetrain · RWD, AWD, AWD Performance
Updated · 2026-04-30

Summary

On Model S and X, the rear toe links and the upper camber arm with bushing are a known weak point. With time and mileage the rubber in the bushings hardens and sags, wheels go negative camber and/or toe wanders under load. From the outside this shows as inner-edge tire wear + sometimes clunk/click on launch and regen. The link is hard to access — replacement is complex (often requires lowering the rear cradle or battery), hence the serious dealer prices.

Symptoms / Diagnosis

  • Tire chewed from inside with formally-normal alignment on the rack ("normal" under the car's weight ≠ "normal" under traction).
  • Slight nose-dive/"pull" under throttle or regen.
  • Knock/click on a sharp link reversal (start-stop).
  • On the alignment rack the rear camber is out of spec, and doesn't get into spec with normal adjustment — factory link travel is ±3.5 mm.
  • The front edge of rear tires is more worn than the rear edge — typical sign of toe drift.

What to do

1) Diagnosis.

  • Alignment rack with printout.
  • On the lift, rock with a pry bar at the toe link and camber arm mounts — see/hear play in the bushings.
  • Also check the upper camber arms (camber arms) — on pre-refresh they're non-adjustable, sag, and wheels go "house-shape" over time (see chat).

2) Replacement options.

Option What Pros Cons
Tesla OEM assembly New arm with factory bushings Most reliable and fast Expensive; need to partially disassemble rear suspension
OEM arm + AliExpress bushings Buy just the bushing, press in Cheaper Quality lottery
Polyurethane JeePerf / TSportline Replace rubber with PU Lasts long, sharp control Stiffer, transmits vibration
Spherical bushings (UP, SPL, MPP) Replace with spherical bushings Ideal for track Whine/clunk over bumps in street use
Adjustable links (n2itive TSX-2 etc.) Replace arm with adjustable Can dial in needed toe Price, install complexity

In chat one owner (#152083): "Model S chews tires from inside in the rear. Upper camber arm isn't adjustable. Wheels gradually go house-shape due to sagging bushings. Either replace the camber arms — they're cheap, $50, or install adjustables".

3) AliExpress lottery. Bushings for S/X can be found at $10–30 each — but quality varies. Brands CTR/RBI/Febest — usually OK, unbranded — may or may not work. On full arms look at the part number with revision letter (-A, -B, -C) — Tesla had revisions.

Belarus budget

Parts:

  • One bushing (aftermarket): $10–30.
  • Full bushing kit per axle (polyurethane): $120–200.
  • OEM toe link assembly: $80–180 each.
  • Adjustable n2itive TSX-2 links: ~$300–400 kit.

Labor (Minsk, ~$50/h):

  • Toe link replacement without subframe drop (via cut/bolt workaround): 2–3 h/side → ~$100–150.
  • Bushing replacement with press: 1–2 h per unit → ~$50–100.
  • With rear cradle/battery drop: 5–8 h → ~$250–400 (plus materials).
  • Alignment after: $40–70.

Total range:

  • Budget (one bushing + labor): ~$80–150 per corner.
  • Mid-range (pair of arm assemblies + labor): ~$300–500.
  • Full rear suspension overhaul (bushing + camber + toe link, both sides): ~$500–700.

DIY notes

  • Disconnect HV and 12V before any work near the rear cradle.
  • On S/X, the toe link bolt sometimes hits the subframe — there's a trick of cutting the bolt with a hacksaw and installing a new one from the other side (see TMC). Without it, many shops quote prices "as if subframe-drop."
  • Compress polyurethane/press the bushing — need a press or a good clamp with the right mandrels.
  • After any work on the rear links alignment is mandatory — Tesla without exact angles starts to chew rubber fast.
  • On pre-refresh Model S, the upper arm is non-adjustable — if camber has drifted, either install new arms, or install adjustables.

Links / Sources


Community experience

From the TESLA owner's group BELARUS chat: on inner-edge rear tire wear on S and the non-adjustable upper arm — several confirmations.

Additional observations:

  1. Inner-edge wear on S without visible camber on the rack — almost always sagging bushings in the upper arm; on Palladium the arm is already adjustable (#152083, #152084).
  2. On pre-refresh there are no adjustable arms, but tuning with adjustment has appeared — recommended for the next car right away (#152083).
  3. The bushing topic on S/X is close to that on M3/Y — "floating bushings" in the rear knuckles/links break and leak like a grease syringe; in chat there are part numbers for M3, for S/X it's safer to go from the arm-as-an-assembly direction.

Sources

  • https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/2013-p85-defective-rear-toe-link.238990/
  • https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/rear-knuckle-bearings-bushings-replacement.349071/
  • https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/rear-adjustable-camber-bushings-for-model-s-x-group-buy.110881/
  • https://n2itive.me/product/n2itive-tsx-2-rear-toe-link-arms-for-tesla-model-s-x/
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rz-DF1U5IJE