Model 3/Y: front creak/crunch when steering or over bumps, upper control arm (ball joint)
Contents
How it sounds
A loud creak or crunch at low speed when turning the steering wheel and going over bumps. Often audible from outside and from the cabin, especially in damp or cold weather.
Typical cause: front upper control arm (ball joint in the "horseshoe")
On early revisions of the Front Upper Control Arm (FUCA) the ball joint is oriented such that grease is gradually squeezed out of the contact zone, and moisture gets into the boot. The result is a dry ball and a "cart" creak. Service bulletins also pointed to this: there is a path for water to reach both upper ball joints, causing a creak at low speed when turning (see TSB below).
Temporary solution (quick and cheap)
- $0–10: through a thin syringe/needle carefully inject thick grease/oil under the edge of the ball joint boot. The sound goes away for 10–30 thousand km, but it is temporary: the grease will leak out again.
- After the injection some owners seal the edge of the boot (with adhesive/sealant) to make it last longer. Do this carefully so as not to damage the boot.
Proper solution
- Replace the front upper control arm with the updated revision (left/right per VIN). On some cars dealers performed a reseal of the ball joint with a urethane compound per the TSB, but replacement with the new revision is more reliable.
- Check other sources of the noise if the creak remains after replacement/lubrication: lower ball joints/bushings, sway bar end links, strut mounts.
Cost (Minsk shop prices)
- $0: syringe + grease (DIY, temporary).
- up to ~$300 per side: upper arm replacement (part + labor) depending on availability and brand. Look up the exact part number by VIN.
Diagnosis (briefly)
- Lift the wheel, listen to the ball joint while turning the knuckle by hand.
- Inspect the ball joint boot for leaks and tears.
- Localize with a stethoscope/listening tool: if the sound "enters" the arm, it is almost certainly FUCA.
- If the noise remains after FUCA replacement, check the lower ball joints/bushings and the sway bar end links.
- A creak when turning the wheel at a standstill can also come from a strut top mount, and a clack-clack when turning the wheel while parked is more likely the steering rack.
On which cars it applies
- Model 3 / Model Y, all regions (US/EU/CN), build years 2017+. On refreshes it is less common but possible, especially with active use and washes.
Links
- TSB (NHTSA): Reseal Front Upper Control Arm Ball Joints, the official sealing procedure:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203341-9999.pdf - Drive Tesla Canada / InsideEVs: about the proactive owner notification and "reseal" of upper arms:
https://driveteslacanada.ca/model-3/tesla-begins-notifying-model-3-owners-to-proactively-address-upper-control-arm-issues/
https://insideevs.com/news/509767/tesla-model3-control-arm-fix/ - Discussion and the temporary "syringe-grease" fix:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/front-upper-control-arm-squeak.255246/ - Diagnosing other sources of squeaks on 3/Y (MPP):
https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/diagnosing-suspension-noises-on-the-tesla-model-3-model-y/ - Sample report and photos of replacement/symptoms (Drive2):
https://www.drive2.ru/l/671998418226262764/
Community experience TESLA Belarus
Analysis of 400,000 messages from the TESLA owner's group BELARUS chat. The issue affects ALL Model 3 and Model Y, not just Performance.
Additional observations from chat:
- Often the noise comes from the strut mount rather than the arm: check the shock rod nut torque. It can squeak when applying or releasing the throttle.
- Lubricating the bushings doesn't help for long; it is a temporary measure.
- A creak when shifting D/R comes from the brake pads, not the suspension.
- After winter, a comprehensive inspection is mandatory.
- After replacing the arms, get a four-wheel alignment check; there is no separate "suspension calibration" in Service Mode on the 3/Y.
Who reported the issue: Ivan Toropishkin, Maxim, Сергей, Александр
Who found the fix: The_one, firago, Viktor, Алексей
Sources
- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203341-9999.pdf
- https://driveteslacanada.ca/model-3/tesla-begins-notifying-model-3-owners-to-proactively-address-upper-control-arm-issues/
- https://insideevs.com/news/509767/tesla-model3-control-arm-fix/
- https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/front-upper-control-arm-squeak.255246/
- https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/diagnosing-suspension-noises-on-the-tesla-model-3-model-y/
- https://www.drive2.ru/l/671998418226262764/
Related
Full list →Tire choice for Tesla in Belarus
Sizes, brands and where to buy tires for Model 3/Y in Belarus. Budget options and fixing vibration issues.
Model 3/Y: lower ball joints, diagnosis, repair options, brands
Lower ball joints on M3/Y last longer than the upper ones, but fail by the same scenario: the boot tears, grease leaks out, and a squeak or crunch appears over bumps and when turning the steering wheel. Whether to replace just the ball joint or the entire arm, and which brands to buy.
Coolant bleeding: removing air after repair
After coolant system repair the coolant doesn't circulate due to an air pocket. How to bleed it via Service Mode, and why after removing the HV battery the system may only be refilled under vacuum, with the procedure per the Tesla manual (Coolant Fill/Drain, vacuum, Coolant Air Purge, top up to norm).
Model 3/Y: rear lower control arm, wear diagnosis, full assembly replacement vs bushing pressing
The rear lower arm on M3/Y holds both the spring and the camber position. When bushings are blown out, the rear axle becomes 'floaty' and chews through tires. Replacing the arm as an assembly or pressing in polyurethane: what the budget options are.