Model 3/Y: front creak/crunch when steering or over bumps — upper control arm (ball joint)

How it sounds

A loud creak/crunch at low speed when turning the steering wheel and going over bumps. Often audible from outside and from the cabin, especially in damp or cold weather.

Typical cause — front upper control arm (ball joint in the "horseshoe")

On early revisions of the Front Upper Control Arm (FUCA) the ball joint is oriented such that grease is gradually squeezed out of the contact zone, and moisture gets into the boot. The result — a dry ball → "cart" creak. Service bulletins also pointed to this: there is a path for water to reach both upper ball joints, causing a creak at low speed when turning (see TSB below).

Temporary solution (quick and cheap)

• $0–10: through a thin syringe/needle carefully inject thick grease/oil under the edge of the ball joint boot. The sound goes away for 10–30 thousand km, but this is a temporary measure — the grease will leak out again.
• After the injection some owners seal the edge of the boot (with adhesive/sealant) to make it last longer. Do this carefully so as not to damage the boot.

Proper solution

• Replace the front upper control arm with the updated revision (left/right per VIN). On some cars at dealers a reseal of the ball joint with a urethane compound was performed per the TSB, but replacement with the new revision is more reliable.
• Check other sources of the noise if the creak remains after replacement/lubrication: lower ball joints/bushings, sway bar end links, strut mounts.

What it costs in Belarus

• $0 — syringe + grease (DIY, temporary).
• up to ~$300 per side — upper arm replacement (part + labor) depending on availability and brand. Look up the exact part number by VIN.

Diagnosis (briefly)

1. Lift the wheel, listen to the ball joint while turning the knuckle by hand.
2. Inspect the ball joint boot for leaks/tears.
3. Localize with a stethoscope/listening tool: if the sound "enters" the arm — almost certainly FUCA.
4. If the noise remains after FUCA replacement — check the lower ball joints/bushings and sway bar end links.

On which cars it applies

• Model 3 / Model Y, all regions (US/EU/CN), build years 2017+. On refreshes it is less common but possible — especially with active use and washes.

Links

• TSB (NHTSA): Reseal Front Upper Control Arm Ball Joints — official sealing procedure:
  https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203341-9999.pdf
• Drive Tesla Canada / InsideEVs: about the proactive owner notification and "reseal" of upper arms:
  https://driveteslacanada.ca/model-3/tesla-begins-notifying-model-3-owners-to-proactively-address-upper-control-arm-issues/
  https://insideevs.com/news/509767/tesla-model3-control-arm-fix/
• Discussion and the temporary "syringe-grease" fix:
  https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/front-upper-control-arm-squeak.255246/
• Diagnosing other sources of squeaks on 3/Y (MPP):
  https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/diagnosing-suspension-noises-on-the-tesla-model-3-model-y/
• Sample report and photos of replacement/symptoms (Drive2):
  https://www.drive2.ru/l/671998418226262764/

Community experience TESLA Belarus

Analysis of 400,000 messages from the TESLA owner's group BELARUS chat — the issue affects ALL Model 3 and Model Y, not just Performance.

Additional observations from chat:

1. Often the noise is NOT from the arm but from the strut mount — check the shock rod nut torque. It can squeak when applying/releasing the throttle.
2. Lubricating the bushings doesn't help for long — it's a temporary measure.
3. A creak when shifting D/R — that's the brake pads, not the suspension.
4. After winter — a comprehensive inspection is mandatory.
5. When replacing arms, suspension calibration in Service Mode is mandatory.

Who reported the issue: Ivan Toropishkin, Maxim, Сергей, Александр

Who found the fix: The_one, firago, Viktor, Алексей

Discussion in Telegram: #260332, #211317, #405466